A visit to Athens can be a dream come true, though in reality, the trip may prove less than idyllic. The wonderful views of the coast from the Acropolis can be obscured by terrible pollution. At times, the horn honking and downtown bustle will drive you crazy -- then suddenly you'll find yourself in the Plaka area, strolling down cobblestone streets lined with colorful houses, gardens, quaint shops and small tavernas. From the vantage point of ancient monuments and amphitheaters, you can look down on tall modern buildings.

Despite the many juxtapositions of ancient and modern life, Athens is looking toward its future. Big changes are evident as the city prepares to "bring home" the Olympic Games in 2004. A new subway system is in place. The new international airport is open at nearby Spata, and congested downtown streets are being transformed into pedestrian walkways, greatly reducing the city's notorious smog and noise. Several museums and archaeological sites are currently being renovated and enlarged while many hotels have also completed multimillion dollar refurbishments. Such improvements to Athens' infrastructure will please most visitors, but make no mistake: The ancient charms that have lured travelers to Greece's capital for millennia still outshine the city's modern makeover.