National capitals are renowned for being the least interesting places to visit in any country, but Washington is an exception. Its tree-lined avenues and grand 19th-century buildings create a surprisingly warm, almost cozy atmosphere - though some neighborhoods are less so than others. The capital is a microcosm of the grand ideals and grim realities of the USA - as the potholes and homeless people everywhere will attest. You don't have to be unpatriotic to be aware of the depressing irony of poverty and racial segregation in the shadow of glorious monuments proclaiming 'equality for all.'

Washington certainly isn't as hip a town as New York or San Francisco, but its museums rank with some of the country's best (and most are free), its architecture is impressive and its dining and nightlife are more cosmopolitan than you might think.

Since the September 11 terrorist attacks in 2001, security has remained high around Washington's key monuments, with access to some tourist attractions still limited.